hair and nails

Section 1: Hair structure and biology

1.1. Hair anatomy: under a microscope

Hair is a complex structure, consisting mainly of keratin, a fibrillar protein that provides strength and elasticity. It can be conditionally divided into two main parts: a hair rod (visible part) and a hair follicle (hidden part located in the skin).

• Hair rod (Hair Shaft):

  • Cuticle (Cuticle): The outer layer of hair consisting of overlapping keratin scales resembling tiles. The cuticle protects the inner layers of the hair from damage and determines its splendor and texture. A healthy cuticle is smooth and tightly adjacent to the rod, reflecting the light. The damaged cuticle (for example, due to chemical processing or thermal exposure) becomes rough and porous, which leads to dullness, brittleness and tangling of hair. Microscopic damage to the cuticle can be caused even by friction on the pillow during sleep. The use of air conditioners and oils helps to smooth out the cuticle scales, restoring its protective functions.
  • Cortex (Cortex): The bulk of the hair consisting of long keratin fibers located parallel to each other. The cortical substance determines the strength, elasticity, color and texture of the hair. Inside the cortical substance are the pigment granules of melanin, which determine the color of the hair. The amount and type of melanin (Eumlanin — dark pigment and feoomalanin — light pigment) vary depending on genetics. Damage to the cortical substance (for example, due to chemical curls or hair straightening) leads to a loss of elasticity and brittle hair.
  • Medulla (Medulla): The central part of the hair rod. It is not present in all types of hair (more often found in thick hair and is absent in thin). The function of the medulla has not been fully studied, but it is assumed that it can play the role in thermal insulation and determining the thickness of the hair.

• Hair follicle.

  • Hair onion (Hair Bulb): The expanded lower part of the follicle, in which the cells of cells forming new hair are active. Inside the bulb is a hair papilla containing blood vessels and nerve endings that provide nutrition and regulation of hair growth.
  • Dermal papilla (Dermal Papilla): The connective tissue structure located at the base of the hair follicle. The dermal papilla plays a key role in the regulation of the hair growth cycle, transmitting signals from the skin to hair cells. It contains fibroblasts that produce collagen and other components of the extracellular matrix, which are necessary to maintain the structure of the follicle. Damage or decrease in dermal papilla can lead to hair loss.
  • Inner and external epithelial vagina (Inner and Outer Root Sheath): Layers of cells surrounding the hair rod in the follicle. They support and direct hair growth.
  • Sebaceous iron (sebaceous gland): Located next to the hair follicle and emits the skin lard (sebum), which lubricates the hair and scalp, protecting them from drying out and external influences.
  • Arrector pili muscle): A small muscle attached to the hair follicle. The contraction of this muscle causes «goose skin» and raises the hair.

1.2. Hair growth cycle: phases and regulation

Hair growth is a cyclic process consisting of three main phases: anagen (growth phase), katagen (transitional phase) and heterogene (resting phase). The duration of each phase varies depending on the type of hair, age and genetic factors.

• Anagen (Anagen): The active phase of growth, which lasts from 2 to 7 years for hair on the head. In this phase, the cells of the hair follicle are actively divided, forming a new hair rod. The length of the hair, achieved during the anagen, is determined by the duration of this phase. About 85-90% of the hair on the head are in the anagen phase at any time.
• Катаген (Catagen): The transition phase, which lasts about 2-3 weeks. In this phase, hair growth stops, the hair follicle is reduced, and the hair is disconnected from the dermal papilla. About 1-3% of the hair on the head are in the phase of Katagen.
• Telogen (Telogen): The dormant phase, which lasts about 3 months. In this phase, the hair remains in the follicle, but does not grow. At the end of the heterogene, the hair falls out, and the new phase of the anagen begins. About 10-15% of the hair on the head are in the heterogene phase.

1.3. Hair types: classification and characteristics

The type of hair is determined by genetic factors and depends on the shape of the hair follicle, the quantity and distribution of the sebaceous glands, as well as the structure of the hair rod. There are several classification systems of hair types, but the most common is the classification of Andre Walker.

• Type 1: straight hair: Hair does not have a curl and lie exactly from roots to tips. Land hair can be thin, medium or thick. Due to the lack of a curl, the skin fat is easily distributed along the entire length of the hair, so straight hair is often oily.
• Type 2: wavy hair: Hair has a light or pronounced curl in the form of the letter S. Wavy hair can be thin, medium or thick. They, as a rule, are more dry than straight hair, and require more moisture. There are several subtypes of wavy hair (2A, 2B, 2C), differing in the degree of severity of the curl.
• Type 3: curly hair: Hair has clearly expressed curls in the shape of a spiral. Curly hair is often dry and brittle, since the skin fat is hardly distributed along the entire length. They require intensive moisture and delicate care. There are several subtypes of curly hair (3a, 3b, 3c), which differ in size and density of the curl.
• Type 4: Very curly hair (Kinky): Hair has very dense curls in the form of the letter Z or S, which can be difficult to distinguish. Very curly hair is very dry and brittle, require maximum moisture and protection. They are also prone to shrinkage (reducing length after drying). There are several subtypes of very curly hair (4A, 4B, 4C), which differ in the density and texture of the curl.

Section 2: Factors affecting hair health

2.1. Genetics: heredity and hair type

Genetics plays a key role in determining the type of hair, color, texture, thickness and tendency to loss. Genes determine the shape of a hair follicle, the amount and type of melanin, as well as the duration of the phase of hair growth. The hereditary predisposition to androgenic alopecia (baldness according to the male type) is also determined by genetic factors.

2.2. Hormonal background: the effect of hormones on hair growth

Hormones have a significant effect on the growth and health of the hair. The imbalance of hormones can lead to hair loss, a change in their texture and fat content.

• Androgens: Male sex hormones (for example, testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (DGT)) can cause hair loss in men and women, especially with androgenic alopecia. DGT is associated with receptors in hair follicles, leading to their miniaturization and stopping hair growth.
• Estrogens: Female sex hormones (estrogens) stimulate hair growth and increase the duration of the anagen phase. During pregnancy, the level of estrogen is increased, which leads to thicker and more healthy hair. After childbirth, the level of estrogen decreases, which can lead to hair loss (postpartum alopecia).
• Thyroid hormones: The thyroid hormones (thyroxine and triiodothyronine) regulate the metabolism and affect the growth and development of hair. Hypothyroidism (lack of thyroid hormones) can lead to hair loss, dryness and brittleness. Hyperthyroidism (excess hormones of the thyroid gland) can also cause hair loss.
• Cortisol: The stress hormone (cortisol) can affect the hair growth cycle, leading to teenelic alopecia (hair loss in the rest phase). Chronic stress can lead to a long increase in the level of cortisol, which can adversely affect the health of the hair.

2.3. Power: The role of vitamins and minerals

Healthy diet, rich in vitamins, minerals and proteins, is necessary to maintain hair health. The lack of certain nutrients can lead to hair loss, dryness, brittleness and deceleration of growth.

• Protein: Hair consists mainly of keratin, which is a protein. Sufficient protein consumption is necessary to maintain health and hair growth. Sources of protein: meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, legumes, nuts and seeds.
• Iron: Iron is necessary for transporting oxygen to hair follicles. Iron deficiency can lead to hair loss, especially in women. Sources of iron: red meat, liver, spinach, lentils and legumes.
• Zinc: Zinc plays an important role in the growth and restoration of fabrics, including hair. Zinc deficiency can lead to hair loss, dryness and brittleness. Sources of zinc: meat, seafood, nuts, seeds and whole grains.
• Vitamin D: Vitamin D plays a role in stimulating hair growth. Vitamin D deficiency can be associated with hair loss. Sources of vitamin D: sunlight, oily fish, egg yolks and enriched products.
• Vitamin B12: Vitamin B12 is necessary for the production of red blood cells, which deliver oxygen to hair follicles. Vitamin B12 deficiency can lead to hair loss. Sources of vitamin B12: meat, fish, eggs and dairy products.
• Biotin (Vitamin B7): Biotin plays an important role in the metabolism of proteins, fats and carbohydrates. Biotin deficiency can lead to hair loss, dryness and brittleness. Sources of biotin: eggs, nuts, seeds and liver.
• Vitamin C: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the hair follicles from damage. It is also necessary for the production of collagen, which strengthens the hair. Sources of vitamin C: citrus fruits, berries, pepper and broccoli.
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Omega-3 fatty acids help moisturize the hair and scalp, and also reduce inflammation. Sources of omega-3 fatty acids: fatty fish, linseed seed, chia and walnuts.

2.4. Stress: the influence of a psychoemotional state

Chronic stress can have a negative effect on hair health, leading to hair loss, slowing down and worsening their quality. Stress can cause teenelic alopecia, nesting alopecia and trichothylomania (hair pulling out).

2.5. External factors: care, environment and chemical effects

External factors, such as improper care, environmental exposure and chemical processing, can damage the hair and adversely affect their health.

• Incorrect care: Excessive washing, the use of aggressive shampoos, frequent use of a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps, as well as rough combing can damage the hair cuticle, lead to dryness, brittleness and split ends.
• Environment: Solar radiation, wind, cold and air pollution can damage the hair and scalp. Ultraviolet rays can cause hair fragmentation, dryness and brittle.
• Chemical effects: Coloring, lightening, chemical curls and hair straightening can damage the hair structure, lead to dryness, brittleness and loss. Frequent use of these procedures can lead to serious hair damage.

Section 3: Hair problems: causes, symptoms and treatment

3.1. Hair loss (alopecia): types and causes

Hair loss is a common problem that can be caused by various factors. There are several types of alopecia that differ in reasons and symptoms.

• Androgenic alopecia (baldness by male type and female type): The most common type of hair loss caused by a genetic predisposition and the influence of androgens (male sex hormones). In men, androgenic alopecia usually begins with a bald spot on the temples and gradually spreads to the parietal region. In women, androgenic alopecia manifests itself in the form of thinning of the hair at central parting. Treatment: minoxidil, finsteride (only for men), laser therapy, hair transplant.
• Telegnum alopecia: Temporary hair loss caused by stress, hormonal changes, diseases, drugs or a lack of nutrients. With teenelic alopecia, a large amount of hair passes into the heterogene phase (resting phase) and falls in a few months. Treatment: elimination of the cause that caused hair loss, balanced nutrition, vitamins and minerals, and a decrease in stress.
• Nesting alopecia (Alopecia Areata): Autoimmune disease in which the immune system attacks the hair follicles, causing focal hair loss. Nesting alopecia can manifest itself in the form of small round baldnesses on the head or throughout the body. Treatment: corticosteroids (locally or systematically), minoxidil, immunotherapy.
• Traction alopecia: Hair loss caused by constant hair tension (for example, with tight hairstyles, braids, dreadlocks). Tractor alopecia can lead to irreversible damage to hair follicles and hair loss. Treatment: avoiding tight hairstyles, soft hair care.
• Rickeeper alopecia: Hair loss caused by inflammation and scarring of hair follicles. Riceps alopecia can be caused by various factors, including infections, autoimmune diseases and injuries. Treatment: depends on the cause, may include corticosteroids, antibiotics, immunosuppressants and surgery.

3.2. Dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis): Causes and treatment

Dandruff is a common disease of the scalp, which is characterized by peeling and itching. Dandruff can be caused by various factors, including malassezia fungus, increased fatty scalp, dry scalp, stress and improper hair care.

• Reasons:

  • Malaassezia fungus: The yeast fungus Malassezia is a common inhabitant of the scalp. In some people, this fungus can cause irritation and inflammation, leading to dandruff.
  • Increased fatty scalp: Excessive secretion of sebum can contribute to the growth of malassezia fungus and cause dandruff.
  • Dry scalp: Dry scalp can cause peeling and itching, which can also lead to dandruff.
  • Stress: Stress can aggravate dandruff.
  • Incorrect hair care: Excessive washing, using aggressive shampoos and insufficient hair rinsing can irritate the scalp and cause dandruff.

• Treatment:

  • Dandruff shampoos: Shampoos containing antifungal components (for example, ketoconazole, zinc pyrithion, selenium sulfide) or salicylic acid can help control dandruff.
  • Oil for scalp: Oils (for example, coconut oil, tea tree oil) can help moisturize the scalp and reduce itching.
  • Corticosteroids: In severe cases of dandruff, corticosteroids can be prescribed to reduce inflammation.
  • Balanced nutrition: Healthy diet, rich in vitamins and minerals, can help improve the health of the scalp.
  • Reducing stress: Stress control can help reduce dandruff.

3.3. Dry and brittle hair: causes and care

Dry and brittle hair is a common problem that can be caused by various factors, including moisture lack, damage to the cuticle, chemical treatment, environmental exposure and improper care.

• Reasons:

  • Moisture lack: Hair that does not receive enough moisture becomes dry and brittle.
  • Damage to the cuticle: The damaged cuticle cannot retain moisture, which leads to dry hair and brittle hair.
  • Chemical treatments: Staining, lightening, chemical curls and hair straightening can damage the hair structure, leading to dryness and brittleness.
  • Environmental impact: Solar radiation, wind, cold and air pollution can damage the hair and scalp, causing dryness and brittleness.
  • Incorrect hair care: Excessive washing, the use of aggressive shampoos, frequent use of a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps, as well as rough combing can damage hair and cause dryness and brittleness.

• Care:

  • Moisturizing shampoos and air conditioners: Use shampoos and air conditioners containing moisturizing ingredients (for example, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, oil).
  • Moisturizing hair masks: S regularly use moisturizing hair masks to restore moisture and elasticity.
  • Hair oils: Use oils (for example, coconut oil, argan oil, shi oil) to moisturize and hair protection.
  • Thermal protection: Before using a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps, use heat protection products.
  • Soft combing: Comb the hair carefully using a comb with wide teeth.
  • Rare washing: Do not wash your hair too often so as not to deprive them of natural oils.

3.4. Serving tips: causes and solutions

Serving tips is a common problem that occurs when the hair cuticle is damaged and delaxed. Serving tips can be caused by various factors, including a lack of moisture, mechanical damage, chemical treatment and environmental effects.

• Reasons:

  • Moisture lack: Dry hair is more prone to the appearance of split ends.
  • Mechanical damage: Rough combing, friction on the pillow and the use of tight elastic bands can damage the cuticle and lead to the appearance of split ends.
  • Chemical treatments: Coloring, lightening, chemical curls and hair straightening can damage the hair structure, increasing the likelihood of split ends.
  • Environmental impact: Solar radiation, wind, cold and air pollution can damage the hair and scalp, contributing to the appearance of split ends.

• Solutions:

  • Regular haircut: Regular haircut (every 6-8 weeks) is the most effective way to get rid of split ends.
  • Moisturizing agents: Use moisturizing shampoos, air conditioners and hair masks to prevent the appearance of split ends.
  • Hair oils: Use oils (for example, argan oil, jojoba oil) to moisturize and protect the ends of the hair.
  • Thermal protection: Before using a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps, use heat protection products.
  • Soft combing: Comb the hair carefully using a comb with wide teeth.
  • Silk pillow: Sleep on a silk pillow to reduce friction and hair damage.

Section 4: Hair Care: Recommendations and Means

4.1. Washing hair: frequency and technique

The frequency of washing the hair depends on the type of hair, activity and personal preferences. In general, it is recommended to wash your hair when it becomes oily or dirty. Excessive washing can deprive the hair of natural oils and lead to dryness and brittleness.

• Hair washing technique:
  1. Thoroughly moisten your hair with warm water.
  2. Apply a small amount of shampoo in the palm of your hand and foam it.
  3. Apply shampoo to the scalp and gently massage it with your fingertips.
  4. Rinse the shampoo with warm water.
  5. Repeat the procedure if necessary.
  6. Apply the air conditioner to the hair, retreating from the roots.
  7. Leave the air conditioning on your hair for 2-3 minutes.
  8. Wash the air conditioner thoroughly with warm water.

4.2. Selecting shampoo and air conditioning: composition and type of hair

The choice of shampoo and air conditioning should be based on the type of hair and their needs. It is important to choose funds that do not contain aggressive sulfates, parabens and silicones.

• Shampoo:
  • For oily hair: Choose shampoos containing purifying components (for example, salicylic acid, charcoal) and not containing oils.
  • For dry hair: Choose moisturizing shampoos containing oils, glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
  • For normal hair: Choose shampoos with neutral pH and soft cleansing components.
  • For dyed hair: Choose shampoos specially designed for dyed hair, which help to preserve color and protect the hair from damage.
• Air conditioner:
  • For oily hair: Use light air conditioners that do not contain oils.
  • For dry hair: Use moisturizing air conditioners containing oils, glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
  • For normal hair: Use air conditioners with neutral pH.
  • For dyed hair: Use air conditioners specially designed for dyed hair, which help to preserve color and protect hair from damage.

4.3. Hair masks: types and application

Hair masks are an intensive care product that helps restore, moisturize and strengthen hair. There are many different types of hair masks designed for different types of hair and solving various problems.

• Types of hair masks:

  • Moisturizing masks: They contain moisturizing ingredients (for example, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, oils) and help restore moisture in the hair.
  • Restoring masks: They contain proteins (for example, keratin, collagen) and help restore the damaged hair structure.
  • Nourishing masks: They contain oils, vitamins and minerals and help to nourish the hair and scalp.
  • Strengthening masks: They contain strengthening ingredients (for example, biotin, caffeine) and help strengthen hair and prevent loss.

• The use of hair masks:

  1. Wash your hair with shampoo.
  2. Apply the mask to wet hair, retreating from the roots.
  3. Leave the mask on the hair for 10-20 minutes (or according to the instructions on the package).
  4. Wleeen the mask thoroughly with warm water.
  5. Use the mask 1-2 times a week.

4.4. Hair oils: choice and use

Hair oils are a universal care product that can be used to moisturize, nutrition, protection and give shine to the hair. There are many different types of hair for hair that have various properties.

• Types of hair for hair:

  • Coconut oil: It penetrates the hair structure well, moisturizes and protects against damage.
  • Argan Oil: Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, moisturizes, nourishes and gives shine to the hair.
  • Jojoba oil: In composition, it looks like a skin fat, moisturizes and regulates the production of sebum.
  • Olive oil: Moisturizes, nourishes and gives shine to the hair.
  • Shi oil: Moisturizes, nourishes and protects hair from UV rays.
  • Avocado oil: Rich in vitamins and minerals, moisturizes and strengthens the hair.

• Using hair for hair:

  • As a mask: Apply oil to the hair and scalp for 30 minutes or at night, then wash your hair with shampoo.
  • As an indelible tool: Apply a small amount of oil to the ends of the hair after washing to moisturize and protect them from the string ends.
  • As a thermal protection: Apply a small amount of oil to the hair before using a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps.

4.5. Combing hair: type of comb and technique

Proper combing of hair is an important stage of care, which helps prevent confusion, brittleness and hair damage. The choice of combing and combing technique depend on the type of hair.

• Types of combs:

  • A comb with wide teeth: Ideal for combing wet hair, as it does not pull and does not break her hair.
  • Brush with natural bristles: Gives shine to the hair and stimulates blood circulation in the scalp.
  • Brush with plastic teeth: Suitable for combing dry hair and for creating styling.

• Combing technique:

  1. Start combing your hair from the tips, gradually rising to the roots.
  2. If the hair is very confused, use a comb with wide teeth and gently unravel it.
  3. Do not pull and do not pull your hair.
  4. Comb the hair with slow and smooth movements.

4.6. Hair protection from thermal exposure and sun

Thermal effects (hair dryer, ironing, curls) and solar radiation can damage the hair, leading to dryness, brittleness and fading. It is important to protect hair from these factors using special tools.

• Thermal impact protection:
  • Use thermal protection products before using a hair dryer, ironing and curling forceps.
  • Set the hair dryer at the minimum temperature.
  • Do not hold an iron or curling for curling for too long on one area of ​​hair.
• Sun protection:
  • Wear a hat or scarf in sunny weather.
  • Use hair products with SPF.
  • Avoid a long stay in the sun in peak hours of solar activity.

Section 5: Nail health: structure, problems and care

5.1. Anatomy of the nail: structure and functions

Nails are solid horn plates located on distal phalanxes of the fingers and legs. They consist mainly of keratin, like hair. Nails perform a protective function, protecting the fingertips from damage, and also help in performing small manipulations.

• The structure of the nail:
  • Nail plate: The visible part of the nail consisting of tightly packed keratin cells. The nail plate is solid, but flexible.
  • Nail Bed: The skin under the nail plate. The nail bed contains blood vessels that provide nail nutrition.
  • Nail Matrix matrix: The area under the nail plate in which new keratin cells are formed. The matrix of the nail determines the shape, thickness and growth rate of the nail.
  • Punched (Lunula): White semi -moon region at the base of the nail. Lunks — this is the visible part of the matrix of the nail.
  • Nail Fold): The skin surrounding the nail plate.
  • Cuticle (Cuticle): A thin strip of skin covering the base of the nail. The cuticle protects the matrix of the nail from infections.

5.2. Factors affecting the health of nails

Nail health depends on various factors, including genetics, nutrition, hormonal background, age and external influences.

• Genetics: Genetics determines the shape, thickness and growth rate of nails. Some people are genetically predisposed to certain problems with nails, such as brittleness or stratification.
• Nutrition: Healthy diet, rich in vitamins, minerals and proteins, is necessary to maintain nail health. The lack of certain nutrients can lead to brittleness, stratification and slowdown of nail growth.
• Hormonal background: Hormones can affect the growth and health of nails. Hormonal changes during pregnancy, menopause or thyroid diseases